Dodge RAM SRT10 (2004-06) Performance Aluminum Radiator – HIGH Performance COOL!!

Description

This American-made performance radiator is a direct replacement for the thinner factory unit on the 2004–2006 Ram SRT-10. It features two one-inch-thick furnace-brazed racing cores and a larger coolant capacity for maximum cooling performance. Designed for an exact factory fit.

All radiators are pressure tested to ensure no problems after installation. For maximum benefit, consider adding a cooler thermostat.

• Radiator Configuration: AA5052 aluminum core and tank
• Tank Weld: TIG welded
• Specification: High-performance racing spec
• Core Design: 2-row racing tube core
• Tank Material: AA5052 aircraft-grade aluminum
• Core Dimensions: 28.5″ height × 24″ width
• Overall Dimensions: 34.5″ height × 31″ width
• Upper Inlet: 1.97″ (driver side)
• Lower Outlet: 1.97″ (passenger side)
• Engine Oil Cooler: Not included
• Transmission Oil Cooler: Not included
• Radiator Cap: CNC precision-machined
• Drain Plug: OEM-style brass petcock

Testing for Electrolysis in Cooling Systems

A voltmeter capable of reading both AC and DC is required to test cooling systems. The meter should read from zero up to the system’s maximum voltage in tenths of a volt. The meter leads must be long enough to reach between the coolant and the battery’s ground side. The ohm function of a voltmeter can also help locate resistance points in the electrical system that cause current to ground through the coolant instead of the intended circuit.

Procedure:

1. Attach the correct meter lead to the ground side of the battery — negative to negative or positive to positive.
2. Insert the second lead into the coolant, touching the coolant only.
3. Read DC and AC voltage with all systems off. If a block heater is present, take a reading with it on. If a standby battery charger is connected, test with it running as well.
4. Read DC and AC voltage with the electrical starter engaged.
5. Read DC and AC voltage with the engine running and all systems on — lights, coolers, fans, heaters, air conditioning, cell phone, and two-way radio (both standby and transmit).
6. This procedure tests the complete system, except for current that may be generated by the transmission or rear end — especially in vehicles with air bag or rubber-mounted suspensions. Grounding the rear end and transmission is strongly recommended.
7. Voltage between 0 and 0.3 is normal in cast-iron engines. A reading of 0.5 volts can destroy a cast-iron engine over time, and 0.15 volts can damage an aluminum engine.
8. The current will be AC if the problem is due to static electricity.
9. If current is detected, turn off each system one at a time until the current stops — this identifies the faulty electrical system.
10. Be cautious of starters, as their high amperage can damage the cooling system like an arc welder.
11. Always replace the coolant if current is detected — electrical current destroys the protective chemicals in the coolant.

Failures Not Covered Under Warranty:

• Improper Flush: The cooling system must be thoroughly flushed, including the radiator, engine, overflow tank, hoses, and heater core. Failing to do so can mix coolants and contaminants, creating a corrosive mixture that damages the system.
• Corrosion: The correct coolant and distilled water mixture must be used. Water with high mineral content can cause severe problems for aluminum radiators, not seen in copper systems.
• Electrolysis: Electrolysis is the removal of the protective layer inside radiator tubes caused by improper grounding. Grounding issues can result from poor installation of aftermarket accessories or incorrect collision repairs.